Getting lots of questions about the differences between these two saddles. The leather is the same, it's the frame that is different.
X1 - Frame constructed of 4130 Chromoly Steel. Saddle weight = 500gms.
X2 - Frame constructed of Aluminum, rails of tubular stainless steel. Stronger rail geometry. Modular in design, so replacement parts can be sent to the rider for self installation. Saddle weight = 420gms.
Selle Anatomica now has hardened chromoly rails available for those of you who are prone to bending our super long rails. Please order online if you need a NewFrame-Hardened Rails.
What can I do to make sure my chromoly rails don’t bend?
Does my new Selle Anatomica saddle require Waterproofing?
All leather saddles require waterproofing if they are ridden in wet, damp or humid weather.
Does SA waterproof the saddles?
Selle Anatomica no longer applies waterproofing to our leather. Our Saddle Sauce brand of waterproofing should be applied to the bottom and raw edges of all saddles, especially if they are going to be ridden in any damp or wet weather. Never apply Saddle Sauce to the top of the leather, that is watershed and does not require treatment.
How does my saddle get wet?
When you are riding in the rain, with your butt in the seat, it is primarily the bottom of the saddle that gets wet – even if you have fenders. Why? Because your butt is covering the top of the seat and the water splashes up from your rotating wheels onto the underside of the saddle.
What kind of waterproofing should I use?
Saddle Sauce is an acrylic based formula that sits on top of the leather and prevents moisture from entering by creating a barrier. It does wear off, particularly where there is frequent rubbing on the saddle and must be reapplied at periodic intervals depending upon how much you ride, and how wet your climate is. Apply a thin layer, especially to the bottom and the raw leather edges, wipe off any excess with a soft, wet cloth and allow to dry at least 4 hours.
Do not use Proofide as it softens the leather. Do not use any waterproofing product that contains silicone or solvents intended to "condition" the leather.
How often should I waterproof my saddle?
For all SA saddles, waterproof the bottom and the raw leather edges prior to riding in any kind of wet weather or if you live in a hot and humid climate. Along with your sweat, water can also be absorbed out of the air and can sometimes cause the leather to stretch if it’s very hot and humid.
Do not waterproof the top of a WaterShed leather until the leather is broken in and stretched out a bit.
What are the layers of my saddle?
A Selle Anatomica saddle has two layers – the full grain, color tanned leather on top. On the bottom, a top grain, uncolored leather we call the laminate. The bottom laminate and raw leather edges of all SA saddles require waterproofing. The thickness of the laminate support layer on the bottom is the difference between the X and T Series. The X Series is thicker than the T Series.
Can I leave my saddle out in the weather?
If your bike must remain outside, we recommend a rain cover. In the absence of a rain cover a shower cap or plastic grocery store bag will do just fine. Cold weather will not damage your leather, but the saddle should not be left out uncovered in any kind of rain.
Is my new Selle Anatomica saddle already tensioned?
As part of the manufacturing process, after we attach the frame to the leather we adjust the tension on the saddle. So, it should arrive in your mailbox pre-tensioned to approximately the correct tension. Weather and humidity play a big part in appropriate tension. But, if it arrives and the tension bolt is loose, go ahead and tighten it until the narrowest part of the slot in the rear of the saddle is 6mm wide. After adjusting the tension pass your 6mm allen key (the one you used to unscrew the bolt) through the narrowest part of the slot to see if it is appropriately tensioned.
How often should I re-tension my saddle?
Every piece of leather and every rider are a little different. But, generally speaking the leather we are getting today requires tensioning in the first rides you will take. So, be sure to carry a 6mm allen key with you on your ride. If you notice a slight ridge on either side of the narrow part of the slot, that means as you ride the edges are touching. Open the slot until your 6mm allen key passes through the narrowest part of the slot with just a small scrape as it passes through.
How do I know how tight the tension should be?
Put your hand LIGHTLY on the top of the slot – putting no pressure on the leather. Turn the allen key counter clockwise (to the left) until you feel the leather begin to stretch. Take a look at the narrowest part of the slot. It should be about ¼ inch or 6mm wide. If repeated tensioning does not open the slot to the recommended width, shaving the slot open at the closest point in the rear is within the guidelines of our warranty.
Your saddle should also take on a hammocky appearance as it breaks in and becomes acclimated to your body. Looking at it from the side, it should have a definite dip. If it appears straight across, it’s too tight. The narrowest part of the saddle should not be more than about ¼ inch or 6mm wide.
What happens when my leather can’t be tensioned any more, when the bolt is fully extended?
When your leather is worn out, you can send your old saddle to us for a NewSkin.
Non-carbon saddles are typically made with round 7mm rails that fit all standard seat post clamps. Carbon saddles however, are made with an oval rail that measures 7mm wide X 9 mm tall. You will need to purchase a seat post clam that accommodates this 7X9 configuration for your carbon saddle.
There are two different types of seat post clamps that will work.
The first is a clamp that affixes to the top and bottom of the rail, rather than side to side onto the rail. This clamp, which comes standard on many newer bikes, fits both round and oval saddle rails.
The second clamp that will work is a side to side clamp that measures 7mm wide X 9mm tall.
Please make sure to procure one of these types of seat post clamps before you receive your saddle. A traditional side to side 7mm clamp will not work on carbon saddle rails.
We are often asked if we have a "Women Specific" model. Our saddle works equally well for women and men with regard to sit bone issues. But there is a caveat for some women with regard to the front of our slot.
Caveat - female riders sometimes find their lady parts and the front slot aren't well suited to each other. For women, soft tissue must fit inside the edges of the front of the slot. If this doesn't happen naturally, accommodation must be made for these women by widening the slot a bit. This is done with a sharp knife, a dremel or a large rounded file. It also makes sense to bevel the 90 degree edges of the slot at the same time.
Call Carol at 619.269.1120 ext 102 for further discussion of this issue if you have questions or need further clarification.
...do not mix well. Water saturation makes leather stretch. Carry a grocery bag or saddle cover with you at all times to cover your saddle if you encounter serious rain.
WaterShed doesn't mean waterproof. The top of our WaterShed saddles repel water because of a special and expensive additive in the tanning mixture. Our bottom pieces of leather however, are veg, a type of leather that has no water repellent properties. We coat the bottom of the saddles at the factory with Saddle Sauce. However, if you get the bottom of the saddle wet, there is a chance water will seep in at the edges and the leather will stretch. We do not warrant leather failure due to excessive exposure to water.
If your saddle gets wet, loosen the bolt, remove all tension from the leather and let it dry naturally.
There are lots of leather saddles with slots these days. We like to think we started a trend. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, right? The difference is that we don’t soak and bake our leather. It is soft to begin with so you don’t have to spend time and money making it soft. We also have the only functional slot on the market. The back third of our slot is where most of the magic happens and is what every other slotted leather saddle lacks. As you pedal and your sit bones move up and down, the leather moves up and down with you. We patented that so the others guys can’t do it.
Most leather saddles, other than those British guys who make a truly excellent product and for whom we have a great deal of respect, are made in Taiwan by a company who got their start making furniture. We make our saddles in the heart of America. We employ American workers and take great pains to do our business and spend our money here in the US. It isn’t always the easiest way to get things done, but we believe it is the right thing to do.